Workshop and Craftsmanship

This is the workshop, in which all my garments are made. As you can see I don’t need much more than a tailoring desk, a sewing machine, needles, an ironing pad and an iron …

… jackets, vests, trousers and coats are made here with very little machinery, the finest hand sewing based on a long tailoring tradition.

What is important about loosely padded lapels?

Padding by hand is one of the hallmarks of true bespoke tailoring. By padding you can link two layers in an almost invisible way and lend them shape in the process. While constructing the lapel I wrap the outer cloth and the canvas around my rounded hand. This roundness is memorialised in the cloth through many tiny stitches. This requires a lot of experience and cannot be replicated by machine.


Why is the fit of the shoulders so important?

If the jacket hangs onto the right part of the shoulder the whole jacket will be more comfortable and the client doesn’t have to constantly readjust it. This is possible by constructing the shoulder in a very specific way and requires alterations throughout the fittings. Having experience also helps. My clients told me that the fit in the shoulders is what they consider a main difference between my jackets and ready-to-wear clothing. This difference is also what makes the wearer perceive the jackets as light even if a heavier cloth is used.

Do you match the patterns even more precisely than in ready-to-wear clothing?

Matching patterns very precisely is a given for my work. But it isn’t exclusively about precision. I can for example make a decision to emphasise the pattern in the cloth — be it checks or stripes — by lengthening the front dart. This can avoid pattern clashes. The effect of the lapel can also be altered by aligning the pattern in a certain way.

Sometimes one reads about “floating canvasses“. What does this refer to?

A floating canvas is a canvas that was sewn in instead of glued to the outer cloth. The canvas is linked by hand to the outer cloth with many tiny and nearly invisible stitches. This requires a very instinctual way of sewing. But the effort is worth it because it doesn’t harm the natural quality of either canvas or cloth and yet — once combined — both are capable of maintaining a three dimensional shape and a degree of firmness.

Why so much hand sewing? Aren’t machines more precise?

Machines are as precise, as the person is who operates it. And in some cases sewing machines attach canvas and cloth too closely without any room for movement. Sewing by hand uses less stitches and less yarn. Doing it this way permits the cloth to follow the shape of the wearer. If hand stitching is done well its beauty can enhance a garment, e.g. pick stitching, buttonholes and hand attached collars.

By the way: all garments are tailored by me alone. My clients value the direct contact very much and I can lovingly control every detail and step in the process. This leads to a level of quality that is highly unusual today.

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